Mosaic method

When cultivating potted plants, the tubers are not buried directly in a sand bed to encourage root growth. Instead, they are first allowed to develop roots before being planted. This plant is not tolerant of strong light, so it should be placed in a shaded area during planting. Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season and fertilize 1-2 times per month. During winter, maintain temperatures above 15°C. If heating is unavailable, dig up the tubers after the leaves have dried out, dry them, and store the remaining roots in a sand layer for replanting in spring. To ensure even germination, you can pre-germinate the buds. Place the tubers on a sand bed, cover them with about 1 cm of fine sand, and keep the sand moist. Maintain a room temperature of 20–22°C. Once the buds have sprouted and developed roots, they can be transplanted into pots. Larger tubers with multiple buds can be divided and propagated. Cut the bud tuber with a clean knife, let the cut surface dry and heal before potting. For large-scale propagation, sowing and tissue culture are effective methods. Seeds should be sown immediately after harvesting since they do not store well and lose viability quickly. At the seedling stage, the leaves are green, but as more leaves appear, colorful spots begin to show. In tissue culture, use MS medium supplemented with 1 mg/L kinetin and 2,4-D to induce callus formation. Then transfer the callus to MS medium with 1.5 mg/L kinetin and 0.1 mg/L naphthalene acetic acid for adventitious bud differentiation. Finally, transfer the buds to 1/2 MS medium with 0.5 mg/L naphthalene acetate for rooting. Explants such as young leaves, petioles, or tubers can all be used to produce callus and eventually new plants. This method allows for rapid multiplication of flowering seedlings. Ramets from the genus Corydalis are commonly used for propagation. From April to May, before the tuber sprouts, remove the small tubers that grow around the main tuber. If the tuber is injured, apply grass ash or sulfur powder to the wound and allow it to dry for a few days before potting. Dividing larger tubers with prominent buds is another effective method. Cut the bud tuber with a sharp knife, let the cut surface dry and heal before planting. Whether dividing, propagating, or using ramets, it's essential to keep the room temperature above 20°C. Lower temperatures increase the risk of moisture retention, leading to poor germination and potential rot. Due to the sensitivity of colored leaf seeds, they must be sown immediately after harvest. Storing them reduces the germination rate significantly. Tissue culture has been widely used since 2000, where leaves or petioles serve as explants. These tissues can form callus and eventually develop into adventitious buds. This technique allows for high reproductive efficiency with minimal mutations, enabling rapid seedling production. Hydroponics is an innovative cultivation method that uses nutrient solutions instead of soil. It includes two techniques: bulb hydroponics and petiole water insertion. This method enhances the color and vibrancy of the leaves, achieving results that soil cultivation cannot match. Bulb hydroponics is best done when the temperature stabilizes above 22°C in May. The bulbs can be directly planted in pots and rooted, or they can first be grown in sand before transitioning to hydroponic culture. Roots typically develop within 7 to 10 days, appearing white and healthy. Petiole water propagation is ideal during the growing season. Select mature leaves, carefully remove them along with their petioles, and insert the petioles into a container filled with water. Submerge the petiole about a quarter of its length into the water, and change the water every other day to keep it clean. A new bulb can form within approximately one month.

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