Mosaic method

When cultivating potted plants, the tubers are not buried directly in the sand bed to develop roots. Instead, they are first allowed to root in the sand before being transplanted into pots. This plant is sensitive to strong light and should be placed in a shaded area during planting. Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season and fertilize once or twice a month. In winter, maintain a temperature above 15°C. If no heating is available, dig up the tubers after the leaves have dried, dry them thoroughly, and store the remaining roots in a layer of sand. Replant them in spring. To ensure even germination, you can pre-germinate the buds by placing the tubers on a sandy bed, covering them with 1 cm of fine sand, keeping the sand moist, and maintaining a room temperature of 20–22°C. Once the shoots and roots appear, transplant them into pots. For larger tubers with multiple buds, you can divide them. Cut the bud tuber with a clean knife, let the cut surface dry and heal before potting. In situ and large-scale propagation can be achieved through sowing or tissue culture. When sowing, seeds should be planted immediately after harvesting, as the seeds of colored leaves do not store well and lose viability quickly. At the seedling stage, the leaves remain green, and as more leaves appear, colorful spots begin to emerge. Tissue culture involves using MS medium supplemented with 1 mg/L kinetin and 2,4-D to induce callus formation. Then, transfer the callus to MS medium with 1.5 mg/L kinetin and 0.1 mg/L naphthalene acetic acid for adventitious bud differentiation. Finally, transfer the buds to 1/2 MS medium with 0.5 mg/L naphthalene acetate for rooting. Explants such as young leaves, petioles, and tubers can all be used to induce callus and produce new buds. This method allows for rapid multiplication of flowering seedlings. Ramets from the genus Corydalis are commonly used for propagation. From April to May, before the tubers sprout, small tubers around the main tuber can be carefully removed. If the tuber is injured, cover the wound with grass ash or sulfur powder and allow it to dry for several days before planting. For larger tubers with prominent buds, you can divide them for propagation. Cut the bud tuber with a sharp knife, let the cut surface dry and heal, then pot it. Whether dividing, propagating, or using ramets, keep the room temperature above 20°C. Otherwise, the tubers may become too wet, fail to germinate, and eventually rot. Due to their poor storage ability, the seeds of colored leaf plants must be sown immediately after harvest. Delaying sowing will significantly reduce the germination rate. Tissue culture was introduced in 2000, using leaves or petioles as explants. These tissues can induce callus formation and generate adventitious buds. This technique allows for high reproductive efficiency, minimal mutations, and rapid production of seedlings. Hydroponics is a modern cultivation method that uses nutrient solutions. It includes two techniques: bulb hydroponics and petiole water insertion. This method enhances the color of the leaves and achieves effects that soil cultivation cannot. Bulb hydroponics is best done when temperatures stabilize above 22°C in May. The bulbs can be directly planted in pots and rooted, or first grown in sand before transitioning to hydroponic culture. Roots typically form within 7 to 10 days, appearing white and healthy. During the growing season, petiole water propagation can be used to grow colored leafhoppers. Choose mature leaves, remove them along with the petiole, and insert the petiole into a container filled with water. Submerge about 1/4 of the petiole length into the water, change the water every other day, and keep it clean. A bulb can usually form within a month.

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